You can shower with this water, but it feels a bit strange on your skin. For brushing your teeth and washing your face, there’s always a filled water carafe by the sink, which is refilled several times a day by the staff. You can also drink the water without hesitation.

We hardly spent any time in the chalet during the day because it was simply too hot. Even the ceiling fan barely provided any cooling. In cooler months, there are a few thick blankets in the closet, as it can get bitterly cold in the desert at night.

The elderly couple from England had a tough time with the heat (40°C and above), but we somehow managed. But that’s just how it is in the desert. Another important point is that there are no fences. The small doors on the jetty must always be closed; everything takes place on the wooden walkway.

Food at the !Xaus Lodge

If you book your overnight stay here at the !Xaus Lodge, you will be offered an all-inclusive package with breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Breakfast included bread, sausage, cheese, spread, jam, yogurt, muesli, cornflakes, fruit, and scrambled eggs. Coffee, tea, and juices were also served.

Lunch included a hot dish with vegetables, meat, and potatoes. In the evening, we were served a three-course meal with a starter, main course, and dessert. In between, you can order drinks (for an additional charge) or small snacks. The food at the lodge was truly delicious and always freshly prepared.

Watch out! A leopard!

We have to tell you about this moment. While we were in our chalet, unpacking a few things, we noticed that the other guests were standing on the wooden walkway with the staff, looking in one direction. I took the camera, went outside, and looked through the viewfinder in the direction the others were pointing. I spotted two beautiful birds and was sure the others were talking about them. But then, through my camera’s viewfinder, I saw a leopard sitting in the sand.

It was only five seconds at most before the leopard disappeared again. It was sitting in the sand right behind our hut, and I could stare into its eyes through the camera. What a magical moment! I took a single photo of that moment; I was far too nervous the whole time.

I called Marco again and again, but somehow he didn’t hear me. I also didn’t want to be too loud, which might have scared the leopard away. When the leopard disappeared behind the dune again, I ran to Marco and, completely excited, told him about the experience. Even the staff is always thrilled when one of these animals visits the lodge.

Activities and Excursions

The staff at !Xaus Lodge offered us a varied program during our stay. A total of four activities were planned: a night drive, a morning walk, a visit to the cultural village, and a sunset drive. If you stay at !Xaus Lodge for more than four nights, a full-day safari is also included in the price. This can, of course, also be added to your stay for two or three nights. Not to mention our hours under the beautiful starry sky or by the pool.

1. Night Drive

On the first evening, we took a jeep out into the dunes for a night drive to discover the desert’s smaller and larger inhabitants. And we certainly did get quite a few in our lens. Besides jackals (black-backed jackals), we also saw foxes (Cape foxes), oryx antelopes, bucks, springhares, mongooses, and even honey badgers.

The sounds of the desert and the beautiful starry sky above us were simply amazing. In moments like these, we continually remind ourselves of what we’re experiencing here, where we actually are, and how grateful we are for everything.

2. Morning Walk and Tracking

The next morning, at around 5:30 a.m., we took a morning walk through the dunes surrounding the lodge. We discovered leopard tracks right behind our hut, as well as tracks of hyenas, oryx antelopes, elands, jackals, snakes, scorpions, and many other inhabitants. There must have been quite a lot going on there during the night.

Our guide explained the tracks to us, showed us how the animals move, what they eat, and how they survive in the desert in such conditions. It was probably the most interesting tour we’ve ever done. We’ve rarely learned as much about our surroundings as we did on this bush walk. Of course, we also have our excellent guide to thank for that!

3. Walk to the Cultural Village

We walked slowly through the dunes before descending into the salt pan and continuing on to the Cultural Village. Village sounds larger than it actually was. Members of the San tribe demonstrated how they made traditional jewelry, both then and now.

Three women, two small children, and three men sat on blankets on the ground and crafted necklaces, bracelets, and pendants from natural materials (wood, leather, stone, bone). They also told us how they used to make hunting weapons, how these weapons worked, how they made medicine, and which animals they had to kill for them.

Of course, these villagers no longer live like this today, as they, too, are growing up in a much more modern world. However, they demonstrate to the lodge guests how they once lived and worked. We only took two or three pictures on site because we definitely didn’t want to point the camera in the people’s faces.

We also watched them making jewelry. It was incredible how creative and skilled they all were. The communities still sell their jewelry and handmade souvenirs, which can also be purchased in the lodge’s small shop. This way, the communities continue to be supported.

4. Pool Time and Wildlife Watching

Afterwards, we hiked back to the lodge, where we had the rest of the day at our disposal. It was so hot that any activity would have been far too strenuous anyway. And so we spent our free time until the evening at, and especially in, the small pool.

The thermometer climbed to over 40°C, which was pretty intense. But somehow we managed to cope with the heat, even though we were sweating the whole time. Salt pans form in deserts and other arid regions. Lakes usually dried up here over thousands of years, leaving behind salt and other minerals.

One of the most enjoyable activities, however, was observing the animals in the salt pan at the waterhole. Oryx antelopes repeatedly passed by during the day, and hyenas, foxes, and jackals in the evening and at night. We saw fewer animals during the day because it was simply too hot for them. However, we could always see animals at the waterhole early in the morning or after sunset.

Interesting fact: In the picture above this text, you can see an oryx antelope walking in the sand (like a path/road). We asked our guide why the animals always walk in these pre-marked tracks. His answer: “They always walk in the tracks, even one behind the other, for fear of snakes. If the animal in front is bitten or attacked, the one behind knows and can move to safety.”

5. Sunset Drive with Picnic

On the second and final evening, we drove out into the dunes again before sunset. Again, we went up and down, and our guide, with his eagle eyes, spotted many wild animals in the sand, in holes, and in the bushes. Luckily, we had our mega-zoom lens on the lens, which we often use as binoculars.

We kept wondering how the hell our guide managed to find the animals. No normal person would have spotted them, but that was also what made our guide stand out. You could tell how well he knew his stuff.

Our guide stopped at a raised area, set up a folding table in the sand, laid out some snacks and drinks, and showed us the sunset. What a fantastic end to this trip! And so we stood there in the middle of the Kalahari, enjoying the sounds of the wilderness around us. What’s also great is that the entire area is private, and no other park visitors were driving around in the dunes. During our stay, there were only the staff and us four guests.

The Last Morning and the Hyena

Marco set his alarm for 4:30 a.m. because he wanted to be on the terrace before sunrise to take photos of wild animals. At least, that was his plan. Both nights we heard the jackals at night, their calls warning other animals of leopards and hyenas.

So Marco grabbed his camera and sat down on one of the loungers by the pool. He kept looking through the lens, searching for desert dwellers. There was nothing to be found; even the tracks in the sand were being blown away by the increasing wind.

And while Marco was staring in the wrong direction the whole time, a hyena crept next to him toward the small waterhole. When he noticed this, he tried to be as quiet as possible. He managed to get a photo or two. But when the hyena realized it was being watched, it made its way down into the salt pan toward the large waterhole. The black-backed hyena is an incredibly fascinating animal, as it lives in clans and exhibits complex social behavior.

Marco told me the whole story when I finally woke up around 8 a.m. He was still blown away by that moment with the hyena and showed me the pictures and videos. Afterwards, we went to breakfast and proudly told the others about this magical moment.

We would have loved to have stayed longer, to have done more bush walks and game drives. We simply can’t get enough of the wildlife in South Africa. But of course, we were also deeply grateful for those three wonderful days at the !Xaus Lodge*.

Prices and Booking

At first glance, you might think that the price of around €330 per night per person is quite expensive. We also initially thought, “Wow… not exactly a cheap undertaking!” But after this trip, we reconsidered the issue and believe the price is absolutely justified. First, you should be aware of the unique location. You are, after all, somewhere in the middle of nowhere, in the middle of the Kalahari in South Africa. That should be worth it.

In addition, you are served three meals every full day. The food tastes excellent and is always plentiful. Furthermore, all the food and drinks at the !Xaus Lodge* are only purchased once a week in Upington, 250 km away. The chalets are superbly equipped and have everything you need. The exclusive view of the salt pan is another highlight of the accommodation.

The price also includes a night drive on the first evening, a morning walk, a visit to the Cultural Village, and a sunset drive on the second evening. Those are four really cool activities alone. Not to mention the hours by the pool overlooking the salt pan and the many conversations with our guide, who answered any questions we had around the clock.

Our Conclusion

What else should we add to this post? You’ve probably noticed that we’re incredibly enthusiastic about this accommodation. For us, this trip was more than worth it because we not only saw amazing animals, but also learned an incredible amount about nature and its inhabitants. You can spend a lot of money on luxury hotels to laze around the pool and enjoy the sun. But you can also invest the money in an adventure like this, one you won’t soon forget.

We hope that this article has whetted your appetite for the !Xaus Lodge in South Africa. On our South Africa country page you will find over 30 more articles with many tips. How about a trip to the Panorama Route, to the Krüger National Park, to the Northern Cape, or perhaps along the Garden Route? No matter what you choose, South Africa is always worth a trip!

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