A South Tyrol vacation in winter? Why not? Our road trip wasn’t originally planned, but after our Innsbruck trip, we simply added another week and drove through the beautiful northern region of Italy in a rental car. And let us tell you something? It was the best decision we could have made.
We hiked through the enchanting snowy landscapes of the Dolomites, tobogganed down kilometers of slopes, marveled at the majestic mountain formations over 3,000 meters high, stayed overnight on farms and in luxury hotels, relaxed in various saunas, and strolled through picturesque little villages.
If you’re now in the mood for a varied road trip through South Tyrol, you shouldn’t miss the following travel report. Have fun browsing!
- South Tyrol vacation in winter – our top highlights
- 1. Stroll through the spa town of Merano
- 2. Merano Thermal Baths – wellness on over 12,000 m²
- 3. Europe’s largest high alpine pasture, the Seiser Alm
- 4. Tobogganing fun in the Villnöss Valley and the Geisler Alm
- 5. Plätzwiese high alpine pasture and the Three Peaks
- 6. End your trip at the Spitalerhof wine and gourmet hotel
- Arriving by train
- Book a rental car in South Tyrol
- Our hotels for the road trip
- South Tyrol vacation in winter – our conclusion
South Tyrol vacation in winter – our top highlights
In the following section, we will tell you which places we visited and explored in South Tyrol. Since we only had 7 days, we focused on specific highlights and left many other places worth seeing aside for the time being. Our motto for this trip was “less is sometimes more,” and so we allowed ourselves plenty of time on site and didn’t rush from A to B. There’s so much more to discover in South Tyrol (lakes, cities, valleys, peaks, hiking trails, etc.), but we’ll catch up on all of that on one or another of our next trips.
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1. A Walk Through the Spa Town of Merano
Our journey began in the small spa town of Merano, which is only about 155 km from Innsbruck. Since we had an important assignment the next day, we wanted to use the free afternoon to explore this place a little more closely. After checking into our room at the small boutique hotel ImperialArt, we immediately set out to explore.
The weather was at its best, and so we enjoyed the spring-like temperatures with a leisurely stroll along the Tappeinerweg. This panoramic trail leads along the slope of the Küchelberg back to the city center and offers numerous beautiful views over the rooftops of the charming spa town.
Highly recommended is the view from the 26-meter-high Powder Tower, which is open 24/7 (free of charge). Along the way, we also discovered several public herb gardens, although these were not yet plentiful in winter. Behind the Powder Tower, we followed the path down to the river, from where we strolled along the water to the Sissi Monument and the pretty Post Bridge. The Tappeinerweg trail is around 6 kilometers long and gives you a beautiful first impression of Merano.
Things are also leisurely in the historic city center. Numerous shops, restaurants, cafés, galleries, and museums are located here. The winding old town of Merano, with its many alleyways, invites you to stroll and browse. Highly recommended are the Merano arcades (shopping mile), the botanical gardens, the historic promenade on the riverbank, the Steinach Quarter, the Parish Church of St. Nicholas, the Kurhaus, and the Princely Castle. Unfortunately, due to time constraints, we didn’t make it to the gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle. But it’s supposed to be worth it! We were also recommended the Merano 2000 hiking area and the Merano High Trail.
2. Merano Thermal Baths – Wellness on over 12,000 m²
We spent the second day from morning to evening at the Merano Thermal Baths, which were just a 5-minute walk from our hotel. This 7,650 m² thermal spa is one of the largest in South Tyrol and awaited us with a huge pool area (25 pools), a 5.2-hectare thermal park, a sauna area of over 2,200 m², a restaurant and bistro, a fitness studio, a spa area, countless relaxation lounges, and exclusive pool suites. Since the thermal spa is open 365 days a year, you can visit any time of year.
We highly recommend a visit to the Thermal Spa Meran. The price-performance ratio is truly excellent! We would love to have a thermal spa like this here in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, but we’ll probably have to wait in vain for that. The thermal spa in Meran truly has everything you need for a relaxing day. And there’s even a lot on offer for children, so families can also have a great day here. We particularly enjoyed the many cozy relaxation areas, the modern sauna world, and the countless pools. We’ve already published a detailed report about our day at the thermal spa: Therme Meran in South Tyrol – Short Break with Wellness & Bathing Fun.
3. Europe’s Largest Alpine Pasture, the Seiser Alm
We had previously only known Europe’s largest alpine pasture from magazines and the internet, so we were very curious to see what the Seiser Alm had to offer in reality. So we drove to Siusi in our rental car and parked in the parking garage at the foot of the cable car (€3 per day). Right next door, by the way, there’s also a large public parking lot, which is supposed to be completely free. Somehow, we overlooked it. The cable car station also has a pizzeria, several shops with ski rentals, a ski school, and restrooms.
The road up to the Seiser Alm in the Sciliar-Catinaccio Nature Park is closed to traffic between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m., so you can only reach the mountain pasture by cable car or bus (or on foot). However, if you have booked accommodation on the Seiser Alm (e.g., in Compatsch), you are of course allowed to drive there. For 19€ per person, we bought tickets for the cable car at the counter and rode directly up to the Seiser Alm. We climbed 800 meters in altitude on this ride before reaching the Seiser Alm plateau after about 15 minutes.
We were greeted with a beautiful “Winter Wonderland” backdrop and could hardly believe our eyes. The view of the surrounding, bizarre rock formations was simply indescribably beautiful. In front of us were the Dolomite peaks of Sassolungo and Sassopiatto, next to us the Sciliar massif with the 2,563 m high Monte Petz, and behind us the Puflatsch peak. We didn’t have a precise plan for this day, but ended up hiking to the rustic Sanon Hut, from where we had a magnificent view (winter hike to the Sanon Hut). We enjoyed the afternoon at the alpine pasture and took the cable car back down to the valley to Siusi shortly before 6 p.m.
4. Tobogganing fun in the Villnöss Valley and the Geisler Alm
Another highlight for us in South Tyrol was the trip to the beautiful Villnöss Valley. We drove to the Zanser Alm parking lot (€8 per day) and simply wanted to see what we could do there. In front of the restaurant was a sign saying “Sledge and Snowshoe Rental,” which we obviously didn’t want to miss. We organized two sleds (€7 per person per day), got some route tips including a map from the restaurant staff, and set off for the Glatsch Alm.
After about 40 minutes, we reached the alpine hut and were amazed by the massive mountain range that stretched into endless heights right before us. From there, we followed the wide path towards Geisler Alm and after a few meters, we reached the first toboggan run. We sat on our sleds and tobogganed several kilometers down the wide farm track before reaching the crossroads to the Geisler Alm. From there, we hiked for about 50 minutes up to the next highlight of the day.
We reached the Geisler Alm, which lies at an altitude of 1,996 meters in the Puez-Geisler Nature Park and offers a magnificent panoramic view. We parked our sleds in front of the entrance and made ourselves comfortable in the rustic, very charming hut. Of course, we started off by ordering a cappuccino and a large portion of Kaiserschmarrn. After a thoroughly enjoyable break, we sat outside on a bench and enjoyed the mountain cinema on the Villnösser Geisler. Afterwards, we tobogganed the almost 3.5 kilometers back to the starting point and had the time of our lives. You can also rent a sled at the Geisler Alm and return it at the Zanser Alm parking lot.
5. Plätzwiese High Alpine Pasture and the Three Peaks
Shortly before the end of our trip, we wanted to get out into the nature of South Tyrol once again. We were recommended a trip to Plätzwiese in the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park. This is a high alpine pasture at an altitude of 2,000 meters, surrounded by a unique mountain landscape. Even the famous “Drei Zinnen” (Three Peaks) are said to be visible from one particular spot. Of course, we couldn’t miss this opportunity and set off in our rental car to Brückele, the perfect starting point for our tour.
Arrival at Plätzwiese
You can arrive by car, but only before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. The 6 km toll road costs €10 (€7 after 3 p.m.). However, only a limited number of vehicles are allowed through. If you don’t want to take the risk, you can park your car and take the shuttle bus from Brückele (€5 per person each way). You can buy tickets in Brückele at the small counter next to the bus stop or directly on the bus (see timetable). However, it’s cheaper to drive your own car, as you only have to pay the €10 toll (parking is free at the alpine pasture).
After a short bus ride from Brückele, we reached the Hochalm and hiked first toward the Dürrensteinhütte and from there up to the Strudelkopf. The paths were fairly well-trodden, so we didn’t need any equipment for this hike. However, snowshoes and/or trekking poles would have been beneficial. After about 90 minutes and a steep final climb, we reached the 2,307m-high Strudelkopf with a stunning view of the many wild Dolomite peaks around us. We took a few souvenir photos and then enjoyed the delicious snacks we had packed in our backpacks.
The return journey took considerably less time, so we took a quick cappuccino break at the Dürrenstein Hut before walking back to the parking lot to catch the bus down to the valley. Around 6 p.m., we were back at the car and drove leisurely back to our hotel. We hadn’t actually planned a long hike for that day, but it was still beautiful. If you’re out on the Hochalm in winter and want to hike up the Strudelkopf, we recommend spikes and/or trekking poles and snowshoes.
6. End of the trip at the Spitalerhof Wine and Gourmet Hotel
The last day of the trip dawned, and after all the wonderful natural highlights, we just wanted to relax and end the trip in comfort. We received a hotel tip from the community and promptly booked a lovely room at the Spitalerhof Wine and Gourmet Hotel the evening before. The hotel has been newly renovated and impresses with its very cozy and modern ambiance. A wellness area with a sauna and whirlpool, a natural pool in the garden, a chic lobby with a bar and restaurant, and a small wine shop awaited us.
Just as we were about to check into our room (“Zirbeltraum”), we unexpectedly received an upgrade and were able to make ourselves comfortable in one of the beautiful junior suites on the 3rd floor. What a lucky day! We unpacked our suitcases and then took a short nap. We then rounded off the evening in the small but fine wellness area. The next morning, a super delicious breakfast awaited us, which truly left nothing to be desired. This is exactly how we imagined this last day of our South Tyrol tour. We highly recommend this accommodation!
Arrival by train
Our starting point was Bolzano and Merano, two cities in South Tyrol that are easily accessible from Munich and Innsbruck. With the Eurocity, it took us just under 2 hours from Innsbruck to Bolzano. Innsbruck, in turn, can also be reached comfortably by train from Munich in 2 hours. From Bolzano or Merano, you can continue your journey by rental car or reach larger cities and towns by public bus. Traveling by bus was out of the question for us, as we had a lot of luggage and wanted to travel to more remote areas.
Booking a rental car in South Tyrol
We booked our rental car in advance via the website www.billiger-mietwagen.de*. We discovered that there was more choice in Bolzano, so after our stay in Merano, we took the bus over to Bolzano (a 30-minute drive) to pick up the rental car. We were given a Toyota Auris, which we used to explore the region for 5 days. After receiving the key, Marco checked the car thoroughly again, took photos and videos of any defects, and checked whether the agreed-upon snow chains were in the trunk. For this period, we paid just under €32 per day for the rental car.
The following services were included in our offer:
- All kilometers free
- Comprehensive and theft protection with no deductible
- Glass, tire, and underbody protection
- Liability insurance
- Fair fuel policy (full/full)
- Deposit amount fair and not too high
- Snow chains
- Offer was bookable immediately
Snow chains were included in our price and were in the trunk. However, we didn’t need them at all, as the roads were always cleared and in very good condition. When booking, you should make sure that you have either winter tires or/and snow chains. Winter tires and snow chains have been mandatory since 2014 (always valid from November 15th to March 31st), but the regulations vary from region to region. Road signs indicate where and when you must use snow chains. Once the snow chains are attached, you are only allowed to drive at 50 km/h.
Our hotels for the road trip
We stayed in very different accommodations in South Tyrol. Sometimes it was a chic gourmet hotel, sometimes a rustic farm. South Tyrol is generally a very expensive place, and if you want to stay in a really nice hotel, you’ll have to dig deeper into your pockets. Location also plays an important role, and a top location (e.g., Seiser Alm, etc.) comes at a price. In the end, we managed to achieve a good mix and were very satisfied with all the accommodations. We have to deduct a few points here and there, but generally speaking, all of the accommodations are recommendable!
This hotel is located right in the center of Merano and has 12 individually decorated rooms and a small café where breakfast is served. Each room was designed by a different artist, so no two are alike. The price included admission to the gigantic Merano Thermal Baths. We felt very comfortable in this hotel. The breakfast was unfortunately a bit mediocre for the price.
Rating: 5 out of 5 points* on Tripadvisor
Book a room here*
This family-run farm is located above Bressanone and offers spacious rooms with a bed, TV, wardrobe, and bathroom with shower. We booked half board because we didn’t want to worry about food. The farm also has a few animals, including a donkey, horse, dog, chickens, and a few cats. The view from the farm is truly beautiful, it’s a great place to unwind, and the food tastes delicious.
Rating: 4.5 out of 5 points* on Tripadvisor
Book a room here*
This hotel is in a great location if you want to explore the Dolomites. The hotel reopened in 2021 and has a cool look. From the outside, it appears inconspicuous and old, but the interior is brand new and modern. The rooms are small but perfectly adequate. Breakfast and dinner were okay, but nothing special. We can recommend the accommodation if you can find a more favorable travel time. Otherwise, it’s a bit too expensive for what you get.
Rating: 4.5 out of 5 points* on Tripadvisor
Book a room here*
At the end of our trip, we simply wanted to relax and end the road trip in comfort. The Genusshotel Spitalerhof is located in Klausen and awaited us with a fantastic suite, delicious food, and a beautiful little wellness area with a sauna, natural pool, and whirlpool. The ambiance is truly wonderful, and the entire hotel is beautifully decorated. We would have loved to stay here a little longer.
Rating: 4.5 out of 5 points* on Tripadvisor
South Tyrol Winter Vacation – Our Conclusion
What kind of trip was that? We still can’t believe we were able to experience all of this. We highly recommend a winter vacation in South Tyrol; the landscapes are so incredibly beautiful. It was the best decision to travel further north in Italy after our trip to Austria. Whether hiking, tobogganing, skiing, snowboarding, or wellness – you can experience a breathtaking active holiday in South Tyrol in winter. Have you ever been to South Tyrol? If so, where exactly did you go? Feel free to share it in the comments below this post.