Essaouira – The windy city on the Atlantic. Our Morocco tour took us from Taghazout to the port city, 150 kilometers away. We experienced truly cozy and relaxing days in this beautiful seaside city. Essaouira is not as bustling as Marrakech, but still offers plenty of variety. Stroll through the enchanting medina, visit the many markets, walk along the sea, and watch the fishermen at the harbor as they bring in freshly caught fish. Have fun browsing and trying it out!

You should also know:

  • You should also know:
  • About Essaouira
  • Our accommodation
  • The beautiful old town of Essaouira
  • The beach of Essaouira
  • The windy harbor of Essaouira
  • The tastiest pasta in town
  • Getting to Essaouira
  • Accommodation in Essaouira
  • Conclusion about Essaouria

About Essaouria

In contrast to Marrakech, Essaouira is a manageable town. Only around 80,000 inhabitants live here in the new surrounding districts and within the city walls, the Medina. The route led us directly along the coast, and after just under two hours, we reached our next destination. We parked outside the walls and made our way through the old town. A plus: cars aren’t allowed inside the walls! So, there’s no need to worry about getting run over.

Our Accommodation

The alleys aren’t nearly as confusing as in Marrakech, and we quickly found our accommodation, Riad Lyon Mogador*. We were warmly welcomed by the French owner. The entrance area itself promised relaxation. Soft oriental sounds emanated from the speakers of the stereo, and dim light emanated from the many small lamps. We loved the tranquil surroundings, the charm, and the atmosphere from the very beginning.

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The beautifully and authentically furnished rooms are spread over four levels. Each room has its own bathroom and has been decorated in traditional Moroccan style. The location of the accommodation is hard to beat; it’s just a stone’s throw from the medina’s main street, as well as the harbor, the sea, and the many small shops and restaurants. By the way, the riad has been rated 4.5 out of 5 on Tripadvisor* based on over 360 reviews.

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In the room, we jumped straight onto the bed, stowed our things, and then went up to the roof terrace. The view is unique. From up here, you have a fantastic view of the old town, and the sound of the waves from the sea is almost impossible to miss. A few sun loungers invite you to relax, and there are plenty of places to sit. Breakfast is served on the terrace in the morning; it’s always fresh and delicious. We can 100% recommend this Riad!

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The beautiful old town of Essaouira

The medina, with its secret and winding alleys, has remained true to its character. It’s cozy and not at all hectic or loud. If you turn off the main road into a side street, you’ll find peace and quiet with hardly any stalls. In all our days, we were only very rarely approached by the vendors. We were finally able to go into some shops, stroll through the streets, and pick up a few nice things here and there.

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Many even have a price on their wares. This method makes things much easier, as you don’t have to ask for a price directly or haggle. Of course, that doesn’t mean the goods aren’t negotiable. But this way, you can see at a glance what’s going on. Just go with the flow and stroll through the many beautiful alleys of the old town.

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Since the old town isn’t that big, you can easily stroll through the entire Medina in two hours. You’ll find cafés and restaurants everywhere, as well as smaller places for a snack. We can’t give you any exciting “insider tips” here; you can simply go with the flow. You’ll always find cozy and charming places to linger.

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The beach of Essaouira

It has to be said that the beach of Essaouira is far more attractive than that of Taghazout. There’s hardly any trash, a wide beach, and plenty of space to relax. Several restaurants and cafés (of course, they’re a bit more expensive) line the beach promenade. The promenade is perfect for strolling and leisurely strolling. You can also surf here, especially windsurfing. It’s not for nothing that Essaouira is also called the “windy city.”

At low tide, the walk into the water can be 150 meters long. Wind speeds exceeding 7 Bft are not uncommon here. In the middle of the bay, you’ll find the Club Mistral surf station, as well as many others like YouSurf Essaouira, Explora Morocco, and Ion Cub Essaouira Surf Kitesurf. So how about a round of surfing?

The windy port of Essaouira

Here, the high waves break, and thousands of seagulls fly around, waiting for the fishermen to return in their blue boats and land their catch. The port of Essaouira is still an important trading center in the country today. Boats are built and maintained here, fishing nets are distributed, and freshly caught fish is sold.

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Everyone tries to sell their catch. You’ll even find restaurants and small food stalls on the edge of Hassan Square, where you can choose your fish, which will then be freshly prepared right in front of your eyes. But be careful: You should negotiate the price beforehand. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a much higher bill.

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The harbor also offers access to the Port d’Essaouira (remains of the old fortress). Looking out to sea, you can also see the two small islands of Mogador. These serve as a bird sanctuary and are off-limits year-round. This is where Eleanor’s falcons flock and breed from April to October. Circumnavigating the island is only possible by fishing boat. Fortress entrance fee: 10 dirhams (1€).

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The most delicious pasta in town

After almost two weeks of Moroccan food, we finally wanted to indulge in something different. So we searched the internet for good recommendations for delicious pasta. We quickly found what we were looking for and decided on the restaurant “Pasta Baladin.” It was only a 5-minute walk from our riad. The Italian owner was already cooking and preparing. We were the first guests that evening and were able to choose a spot in the small restaurant.

Pasta Baladin really only serves pasta. Our expectations were even higher when the owner told us he was a true Italian. We ordered penne pesto and Bolognese, and less than 10 minutes later, he brought us the food. Finally, pasta again! The first bite melted in our mouths like oil and made us want more. Please note, this is purely our opinion (purely a matter of taste): We haven’t eaten such good and fresh pasta as at Pasta Baladin in a long time.

Getting to Essaouira

There are two airports nearby: Marrakech and Agadir. From Marrakech, it’s just under 180 kilometers. From Agadir, approximately 170. You can travel to Essaouira easily and comfortably with bus companies like CTM or Supratours. From Marrakech, it’s just under three hours, and a single trip costs around 70 dirhams (7€). Of course, the so-called “Grand Taxis” will also take you into the city. However, you should definitely negotiate the price in advance.

Accommodation in Essaouira

As in Marrakech, you’ll find beautiful traditional riads within the medina. We highly recommend our accommodation, “Riad Lyon Mogador.” Other particularly popular options include Riad Watier, Riad Zahra, the beautiful Riad Chbanate, and Riad Baladin, as well as the traditional and modern riads Malaika and Dar L’Oussia. Many of these riads can be booked through Booking.com and other platforms.

Be sure to check out Airbnb. You’ll also find many great accommodations in Essaouira there. In some cases, it won’t even cost you €20 a night. If you don’t have an Airbnb account yet, you can create one using our invitation link. You’ll receive €30 credited to your first booking as a new customer.

Conclusion on Essaouira

Essaouira is a truly beautiful city with incredible charm and flair. Compared to Marrakech, it’s simply not as hectic and crowded. Its seaside location also makes the city a popular destination for water lovers. We really liked the mix of old town, harbor, and beach here. We hope our Essaouira travel tips have been helpful to you.

We can also recommend a tour of the Sahara Desert, a detour to the surfing town of Taghazout, a visit to the green valleys and oases, and a night in the beautiful Kasbah Azul in Agdz.