Marco and I have never been to India. To be honest, the thought of this country always made us a little dizzy. During our world trip, we were simply never ready for this country. Too many people, too many impressions, too much hustle and bustle. Today, of course, things are different, and we could certainly imagine traveling to India one day. But before that, many other adventures await us.
Our travel reporter Shirin has already been to India and traveled across the country for seven weeks by train, bus, and plane. She saw and experienced an incredible amount. From the bustling streets of New Delhi and the sacred temples of Varanasi to the imposing Taj Mahal and the cozy beaches of Goa. In the following article, Shirin takes you to India and reveals her most beautiful Indian sights and highlights. Have fun browsing!
- My tour of India
- India sights & travel route
- 1. New Delhi
- 2. Jaisalmer – sleeping in the desert
- 3. Jaipur – Pink City
- 4. Taj Mahal – great amazement
- 5. Varanasi – holiest city in India
- 6. Goa – quieter and more touristy part of India
- 7. Alappuzha – the Venice of India
- 8. Auroville – a living utopia
- My best India tips
- Being approached / getting noticed
- Train journeys / getting around
- Food and traveler’s diarrhea
- My top 10 India sights & Highlights
- About the author
My tour of India
In 2019, I traveled through India for 7 weeks, and since then, it has been one of my favorite countries. The incredibly delicious food, the hospitality, the diversity, and the cultures fascinated me, and the impressions overwhelmed me again and again. Approximately 1.42 billion people live in the approximately 3,287,469 km² country, speaking around 170 different languages.
The landscapes, the people, and the food are correspondingly diverse. With all the hustle and bustle, the noise, the crowded streets, the poverty, the staring and the chatting, India can also be a very exhausting and upsetting country. During my time there, I was repeatedly reminded of how privileged I am. I can only recommend that you visit this country.
India Sights & Itinerary
My seven-week tour of India took me across the country. I got to know and love the most diverse corners of the country. My trip took me from New Delhi to Alappuzha in the south of the country.
My itinerary: New Delhi → Jaisalmer → Jaipur → Varanasi → Goa → Alappuzha → Auroville.
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1. New Delhi
I started with my travel companion in New Delhi and was amazed by the beautiful parks, temples, buildings, and markets. We were able to explore everything by metro and on foot. My personal highlight was the Sikh temple Gurudwara Bangla Sahib. Here, cooking is done from morning to night, and everyone receives free, simple, but delicious food. In a large hall, you sit in one of the many rows of people on the floor and are served rice, dahl, curry, and chapati on a thali by the people milling around.
Thali is a metal plate on which food is typically served in India. A meal consisting of various dishes is also called a thali. The atmosphere in the temple itself and in the food hall was very quiet, peaceful, respectful, and somewhat reverent. Photography is prohibited here. Regardless of the food, it is worth visiting the magnificent temple.
Other highlights in New Delhi were the Lodhi Garden, the Lotus Temple, and the Akshadham Temple. It’s also worth strolling through the old city, past the Red Fort, Chandni Chowk, and Jama Masjid. The India Gate and the presidential and ministerial district are also interesting to see.
- Delhi: Guided Evening City Tour of Delhi*
- From Delhi: Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Baby Taj Day Trip*
- Old Delhi: Street Food Tour*
- Delhi: Private 3-Day Golden Triangle Tour*
2. Jaisalmer – Sleeping in the Desert
After three days in Delhi, our 18-hour train journey continued to western India, to the desert city of Jaisalmer. For this long journey, we booked two beds in the luxury class (costing a total of around €50) and shared a compartment with a couple. The journey was very pleasant. We spent the time sleeping, drinking chai (black tea with spices, sugar, and often milk), chatting with the couple, and simply gazing out the window.
In Jaisalmer, we spent a night in the desert. First, we drove out of the city by jeep, through villages, and into the desert. We covered the last 1-2 hours to our overnight camp on camels. Our two guides prepared a delicious dinner and breakfast for us over an open fire, and of course, the obligatory chai.
We saw the sunset and sunrise, slept under a beautifully clear starry sky, and enjoyed the silence of the desert. A truly beautiful experience. We also explored Jaisalmer. It’s a beautiful, small, predominantly Arabic town that can be explored in a few hours.
- Billions of Stars Experience with a Non-Tourist Camel Safari*
- Jaisalmer Heritage Walking Tour with a Local Guide*
- Desert Rose Jaisalmer: Luxury Tent in the Thar Desert*
3. Jaipur – Pink City
We continued our journey for 14 hours in the second-worst seating class on the Indian Railways to Jaipur. On this journey, we had a very nice experience with an extended Indian family who boarded our almost empty compartment at night. They sat right next to us, and we quickly began chatting. We talked about ourselves, and they talked about themselves. Before I knew it, I had the dot typical of a married woman glued between my eyes, had bracelets on my head, and had another dot painted below my hair parting.
My travel companion and I always claimed to be married, as unmarried couples aren’t allowed to share a room in some accommodations. In our many conversations, I repeatedly heard the family’s enthusiasm for foreigners exploring their country. Of course, 14 hours a night without sleep, sitting and squashed between other people, was very exhausting, but the wonderful encounters outweighed it.
We spent three days in Jaipur. The city is known for its old town with its pink roofs, which is why it is also called the Pink City. Personally, I didn’t like Jaipur itself all that much. After two days in the comparatively quiet Jaisalmer, I quickly became stressed by the crowded streets, the hustle and bustle, and the frequent chats. I gradually got used to it, so it bothered me less and less in the following weeks.
Around Jaipur
The surroundings were all the more beautiful. Here we visited a monkey temple (Galta Gi), an old fortress (Amber Fort), and the water temple (Jai Mahal). The latter is located in the middle of a lake and appears to be floating. I liked the Monkey Temple the best because it’s hidden and peaceful among the hills, relatively untouristy, and, as the name suggests, inhabited by monkeys. However, you have to keep an eye on your belongings here; we witnessed firsthand how a monkey disappeared into the rocks with a stolen scarf.
For this day trip to the Jaipur area, we had a personal driver who took us from place to place in his tuk-tuk. You can enjoy a delicious meal in a beautiful setting above the rooftops of Jaipur with a view of the city at the Peacock Restaurant. The prices are a bit expensive by Indian standards, but still reasonable compared to Germany. You can watch Bollywood films at the magnificent Raj Mandir Cinema, said to be one of the most beautiful cinemas in India.
- Jaipur: Private Full-Day City Tour*
- Exploring Jaipur: Amber Fort, Jal Mahal, and Hawa Mahal Private Tour*
- Delhi: Private 3-Day Golden Triangle Tour*
4. Taj Mahal – Great Wonders
From Jaipur, we went to the city of Agra. Doesn’t mean anything to you? It didn’t to me before I planned it, but everyone knows THE sight of the region, if not all of India: the Taj Mahal. I was impressed by the size and charisma of the Muslim tomb. Even though there are more beautiful tombs and temples in India, the entrance fee is comparatively expensive and of course it is always busy (with up to 50,000 visitors a day it is one of the most visited places and monuments in the world), I can only recommend that anyone traveling through India visit “the jewel of Muslim architecture in India”.
Find out in advance about the opening times (visits are not possible on Fridays) and strict rules. For example, large backpacks are not allowed on the grounds. If you would also like to get a beautiful view of the Taj Mahal, I recommend the Moon Garden on the other side of the river. Without an overnight stay, we continued on to Varanasi that same evening on an overnight bus.
- From Delhi: Taj Mahal & Agra Private Day Trip with Transfers*
- Agra: Private Guided Tour to the Taj Mahal*
- From Delhi: Day Trip to the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, and Baby Taj*
5. Varanasi – India’s Holiest City
Varanasi is very difficult to describe. During my stay there, I alternated between excitement, disbelief, fascination, and disgust. I highly recommend including this city on your India tour, as it’s a completely different world. Varanasi is one of the holiest cities in the world and one of the top tourist attractions in India. The Ganges flows through here, and Hindus from all over the world make pilgrimages to the city to wash themselves in the Ganges or even to die here. The best thing that can happen to a Hindu is to die in this city, be cremated, and then scattered in the Ganges.
On a morning boat tour, you’ll get a different view of the hustle and bustle on the banks, the large cremation site Manikarnika Ghat, and you can experience the funeral rituals on the boats up close. In the morning and evening, a ceremony takes place at Dashashwamedh Ghat, which is well worth watching. We spent most of our time on the riverbank, lined with temples and so-called ghats. Mainly because the traffic in the rest of the city tops everything I’ve experienced in my life so far (you’re usually faster on foot than by car).
Among corpses, garbage, and sacred ceremonies
But also because life and death are closer together here than anywhere else in the city. The bodies are cremated amidst garbage, dogs, cows, and onlookers. Sacred ceremonies take place here, people wash themselves in the river, and the ashes of the deceased are spread from boats. Laundry is also done here, and teeth are brushed and people relieve themselves right next to it. Pilgrims camp here, have their heads shaved, meditate, and naked, white-painted holy men walk through the streets. It’s an absolutely crazy and sometimes surreal city.
Unfortunately, the holy river is also heavily polluted and toxic. The discharge of untreated sewage, chemicals, the dumping of partially or uncremated bodies, and the scattering of ashes are the main causes of water pollution. Nevertheless, the holy ablutions are part of the cityscape, and I’ve even seen people drinking water directly from the Ganges. Both drinking and swimming in the river are definitely not recommended, as the water is highly toxic and can cause illness.
- Varanasi Walking Tour with Local Snacks*
- Sunrise Boat Trip in Varanasi*
- Varanasi: Private City Tour with Ganges Boat Trip*
6. Goa – a quieter and more touristy part of India
We flew south to the state of Goa. Goa is known for its beaches and is popular with many vacationers. We spent three days in Anjuna, and I was disappointed. The beach there resembled a warm, overcrowded North Sea beach for partygoers. From Anjuna, we continued by bus to the port city of Panaji, which was shaped by Portuguese colonialism. Beautiful little Portuguese houses and churches characterize the quiet old town. A visit is worthwhile and reminds one that the Indian population was oppressed by colonial powers for a long time.
We spent the Holi Festival in Panaji. However, this festival is not as widely celebrated in South India as it is in North India. Actually, several public and private Holi parties, as well as a large parade, were supposed to take place in Panaji. Actually! Due to the sudden death of Goa’s chief minister four days before Holi, all public events in Goa were canceled. And since the deceased was born in Panaji, private parties in the city and surrounding area were also canceled out of respect.
Happy Holi
After we had already given up hope of seeing anything of Holi, our faces were completely colored after an hour on the streets. There were several groups of children and men (yes, unfortunately, there were hardly any women around) armed with paint. While the children used water pistols to spray passersby, cars, and mopeds with colorful water, the adults were a bit more civilized. In Goa, people wish each other “Happy Holi” and smear paint on their faces.
At the end of the day, people in Panaji go into the sea to wash off the paint. We were picked up by a young man who took us to a small party on his street. Even though it was only a scaled-down version of Holi, it was a beautiful and interesting experience.
Agonda Beach in Goa
We continued on to the beautiful Agonda Beach with local buses. Our accommodation was right on the beach, including a sea view. Since we were there outside of peak season, the beach was comparatively empty. No sun loungers anywhere in sight, but plenty of dogs and cows. With a bit of luck, you might even see dolphins from the beach.
A hike to the nearby and rarely visited Cola Beach is also recommended. It is characterized by the confluence of a lagoon and the sea and its seclusion. It is possible to spend the night in one of the huts. After all the many and intense impressions, the time in Agonda was a welcome respite.
7. Alappuzha – the Venice of India
After five relaxing days, we continued south on a 15-hour train ride to the city of Alappuzha in the state of Kerala. The area is known for its backwaters, a complex network of rivers, lakes, and canals. The lives of the people living in the backwaters take place on, near, and in the water. They use the water to irrigate their rice fields, cook with it, fish for lunch and dinner, and wash themselves, their dishes, and their clothes. The area is very green and characterized by coconut palms and mango trees.
Unfortunately, water pollution is also a problem here. We took a canoe tour through the beautiful canals and learned that once a year (August/October), most of the houses flood. During this time, people live in schools, gyms, and other buildings. I highly recommend booking a canoe tour. This way, you’ll see much more and also travel through narrow river branches. We were also lucky enough to have one of the most delicious meals of the entire trip with the canoeist’s family during the canoe tour.
- Alappuzha: Backwaters cruise in a Shikara boat*
- Kerala Backwater Village Kayak Tour (full day)*
- Kochi: Full-day private houseboat cruise with transfers*
8. Auroville – a living utopia
I ended my trip to India with volunteer work in Sadhana Forest on the east coast of India. Sadhana is part of the planned city of Auroville. Auroville was founded in the 1960s and aims to be a universal city where all people live together peacefully and in unity. The plan was for a population of 50,000. Currently, however, only about 3,500 people live there, about one-third of whom are of Indian origin.
This social experiment exists without government and without property; decisions are made democratically, and life is lived as sustainably as possible. It has all the amenities a city would expect: schools, theaters, a community kitchen, cafes, restaurants, a free cinema, etc.
Matrimandir is the meditative center of Auroville, and this large golden sphere is definitely worth a visit. I have rarely experienced such a beautiful, tranquil, and special place. For more information, please visit www.auroville.org.
Volunteer Work in Sadhana Forest
Sadhana Forest is a community of volunteers from all over the world whose goal is to reforest the forest and live as environmentally friendly as possible. Cooking is done over a fire. Only vegan food is eaten. All food and water consumed is returned to the environment in the form of compost or for watering the plants. Electricity from the lodge’s own solar panels is available only in the kitchen and the main hut. There are pit toilets, and showers are done using a bucket.
The type of volunteer work varies greatly: planting trees, watering trees, helping in the kitchen, etc. You can find more information about the projects in Haiti and Kenya at www.sadhanaforest.org. Although my stories sound so peaceful and positive, I think it’s important to mention that Auroville also has some negative aspects. For many, the basic income paid is barely enough to live on. Nevertheless, I had a wonderful time overall in Sadhana Forest and Auroville, even if the spiritual touch that pervades everything was sometimes too much for me.
My Best India Tips
Traveling through India can be a fascinating and enriching experience, but there are a few things you should keep in mind to make your trip more enjoyable. Here are some tips:
Being Approached / Standing Out
As a fair-skinned and blonde person, you will stand out in India and be stared at accordingly. People asking for a selfie is part of everyday life. Since I have darker skin and brown hair and eyes, I wasn’t affected by all of this as much. My travel companion was tall, blond, and had very fair skin, so he was often the only one asked for a selfie. I (fortunately) wasn’t interesting enough.
I gradually got used to being constantly approached on the street and got better at ignoring the voices and just moving on. I think it’s important not to judge people for it. If you’re financially able to travel through India, you’re simply much better off financially than most people there. Of course, they want to earn money from you to support themselves.
Train Journeys / Getting Around
I highly recommend traveling through the country by train instead of flying. I had the most beautiful and authentic encounters with locals during the (very long) train journeys. Nobody wants to sell you anything here; everyone is interested in you. In addition to the encounter with the extended family already described, we had many other wonderful encounters.
During the train journeys, vendors walk through the aisles, offering chai, samosas, and other snacks for little money. Apart from that, you see much more of the country through the train windows, making travel more environmentally friendly and cost-effective. I booked all of my tickets in advance, primarily to ensure we got a sleeper-class ticket for the long journeys.
Night buses are also a possible alternative for covering long distances. I’ve only taken one once and can summarize the journey as follows: Night buses in India are driven like scooters. This means overtaking, hitting the gas despite potholes, and, of course, honking 70% of the time. The constant “being thrown up and to the side” is an experience. I had a few more bruises afterward than before.
For shorter distances, tuk-tuks, taxis, or buses were our first choice. It’s best to call taxis or tuk-tuks using the Uber app. There’s a set price, so you don’t have to bargain and you won’t get ripped off. In Delhi, the subway took us everywhere reliably. Sometimes we only got from one place to another using various local buses. It’s best to tell the bus drivers your final destination. They usually let us know when we needed to get off and also told us which bus to change to.
Food and Traveler’s Diarrhea
As already mentioned, the food in India is incredibly diverse, delicious, and different from region to region. Even though a lot of it revolves around curries, they’re always different. I wanted to try as many different types of curries as possible and eventually started writing down which curries I’d already eaten. Otherwise, I would have lost track.
To prevent traveler’s diarrhea, the usual rules apply: don’t drink tap water. I didn’t even brush my teeth with tap water to be really safe. Only eat cooked and vegetarian food. Check out the reviews on TripAdvisor. You might find (many) reviews from foreigners who got traveler’s diarrhea after eating there. I was lucky and was spared from traveler’s diarrhea. But your first aid kit should definitely contain something for traveler’s diarrhea.
My top 10 India sights & Highlights
- Eating at the Sikh Temple “Gurudwara Bangla Sahib” in Delhi
- Experience life in Varanasi on the banks of the Ganges
- Taj Mahal
- Monkey Temple (Galta Gi) near Jaipur
- Peacock Restaurant in Jaipur
- Canoeing through the canals in Alappuzha
- Staying overnight in the desert near Jaisalmer
- Drinking lassi and chai
- Trying as many types of curry as possible
- Strolling through the markets, eating the incredibly delicious and fresh fruit
About the author
I am Shirin, 27 years old, and discovered my passion for travel in 2015 during a 4-month trip through discovered New Zealand. Since then, I’ve tried to regularly set aside a few months to go on long trips. Whether alone, as a couple, with a backpack, or with my tiny camper. The main thing is to escape from everyday life, into new countries, into nature, discover new things every day, and gradually get to know a little more about the world, its different cultures, and ways of life. Next, I’d like to travel to Iceland, Slovenia, and Kurdistan. Here’s my Instagram account: @shi_walks.