After the first two days of not-so-great weather in Iceland, the sun finally shone. In perfect weather, we finally set off in our rental car towards the north of Iceland. We had just left the Golden Circle in the south of Iceland, and the next highlights were already waiting for us. We originally wanted to explore the Snæfellsnes peninsula, but the weather was too bad there. It was much better in the north, so we headed there. We spend the night in Hvammstangi at the fairly simple but adequate campsite.
Camping in Iceland is generally very easy and comfortable. Well-rested and in a good mood, we visited the Vatnsnes Peninsula. Why did we explore this particular corner of Iceland? We don’t really know. We simply followed our “instinct.” It was a great decision, because we had a fantastic day in nature. Here are our absolute highlights and tips for the Vatnsnes Peninsula.
Other important Iceland topics:
- Driving in Iceland
- Camping & Camping in Iceland
- Iceland’s Sights
- Currency in Iceland
- Best time to travel to Iceland
- Routes for 7 and 14 days
- Costs for our trip
- Our Iceland country page
- The South of Iceland
- Preparation for Iceland
- The North of Iceland
- The East of Iceland
- The Westman Islands
- The Southeast of Iceland
- Reykjavik Highlights & Tips
- The Golden Circle
- Other important Iceland topics:
- The small lighthouse
- Seals in Illugastadir Bay
- The troll Hvítserkur
- The most important facts at a glance
- Conclusion on the Vatnsnes Peninsula
- Our travel diary on YouTube
The small lighthouse
The first few meters on road 711 on the Vatnsnes Peninsula were on an asphalt road before it became a gravel track. The driving was still quite good, just much slower. Green meadows, the roaring sea, lots of sheep, and wild horses followed. The peninsula seemed very untouched and rugged to us, yet charming, with views all the way to the Westfjords. We made our first stop just before a small lighthouse called Skardsviti Lighthouse.
The wind was raging, making it difficult to open the car door. Please always be careful at this point and hold the doors securely and tightly when getting in and out. After taking a few photos, the journey continued. Shortly after the lighthouse, we spotted the first signs pointing to seal spots. We followed the path, but unfortunately, no seals were to be seen. The entire peninsula is home to only small farms and a few isolated houses. Due to the road conditions, we made slow progress (although the speed limit is 80 km/h).
Seals in Illugastadir Bay
We drove further and further along the 711 almost to the northernmost tip of the peninsula. Here we stopped in Illugastadir. This village is located near a farm and a parking lot with an information booth and restrooms. You can even camp here. We left the car, grabbed our cameras, and strolled along the marked path. A sign told us there were supposed to be seals nearby. The clouds continued to drift away, and the sun began to appear more and more frequently.
While we were taking pictures of the landscape, we occasionally spotted a seal in the water, curiously poking its head out of the water. When we finally arrived in the bay, we immediately spotted 6, 8, or 10 seals. We’re not sure how many were there. It looked as if the seals were playing and frolicking. Totally cute! By the way: In the summer months, many birds also breed here, such as puffins.
The Troll Hvítserkur
We followed the road and repeatedly discovered beautiful natural wonders. The distant Westfjords and Northfjords also made us want to see more. Iceland left us speechless several times that day. At some point, we reached a parking lot with a unique view of the sea and the black beaches. We couldn’t get enough of this view.
A path leads from the top down to the beach. There, a realIcelandic troll awaits you. Okay, not a real one. But according to the story, this basalt rock is said to represent a troll. While trying to destroy a monastery, it was surprised by the sunrise and turned to stone. And so it still stands there, right in the water. The rock is around 15 meters high and is called the “White Shirt” (Icelandic: Hvítserkur). But why the “White Shirt”? This is due to the droppings of the thousands of birds that live and breed in the crevices of the rock.
We took countless photos, strolled along the black sand, and enjoyed this beautiful place to the fullest. The further we drove, the more beautiful the landscapes of this peninsula became. Somehow, it was incomprehensible to us how this rock got to this exact spot. It stands in the middle of the water, completely alone, without any connection to the coast. What crazy nature!
The most important facts at a glance
- Route: a total of 82 km from the Ring Road to Hvammstangi and once around
- Road: easy-to-drive gravel road
- Driving time: 2 to 3 hours / with sightseeing 5 to 6 hours
- Camping: Hvammstangi, Illugastadir Camping
- Accommodations: Geitafell Guesthouse*, Ósar Hostel*, Hotel Hvítserkur*)
- Supermarket: Hvammstangi
- Fuel station: Orkan Hvammstangi, N1 Víðigerði
Conclusion on the Vatnsnes Peninsula
What we particularly liked were the beautiful landscapes and views. There were hardly any tourists on the peninsula, so we only had to share the highlights with a few others. The seal colony was very cute to look at, as was the whole area around Illugastadir. On the other side of the peninsula, the landscape became increasingly lush and vibrant. The blue sky, the black beaches, the mountains on the horizon, the green meadows – simply stunning. Of course, the detour to Troll Rock is also worthwhile. We didn’t regret the trip and would go there again.
Our travel diary on YouTube